Men's shirts: types, how to choose and what to wear?

Men's shirts: types, how to choose and what to wear?
  1. Peculiarities
  2. Styles
  3. Collar types
  4. Sleeve and cuff options
  5. What kinds of fasteners are there?
  6. Materials (edit)
  7. Variety of colors, decor and prints
  8. Styles
  9. Selection Tips
  10. How and with what to wear?
  11. Stylish examples

A shirt is an indispensable element of a man's wardrobe. Depending on the purpose, there are many options for this element - from business to bright and unusual models for recreation. Let's take a closer look at the most popular types of men's shirts, how to choose them and what to wear with.

Peculiarities

A feature of a man's shirt and its main difference from a woman's is the purpose of the product. This wardrobe item is a must-have in an image with a business suit. That is, at official events, it is impossible to imagine a man wearing a suit with something other than a shirt. The next difference lies in the location of the buttons. For men, the buttons are always on the right side, while for women, they are on the left.

Interestingly, this location has a historical explanation - in case of danger, a man in ancient times had to sharply draw out a dagger, which was done with his right hand, a different arrangement of buttons would be simply inconvenient... The men's shirt has no darts.

The latter are an indispensable element of the cut of women's products, which ensures a flawless fit in the chest area.

Styles

All types of shirts can belong to one group or another based on their style.

  • Slim-Fit (sometimes referred to as "body-slim"). A shirt with a fitted silhouette (usually stretch), which can act as an independent bow detail and can be worn even without a jacket. In the best way, she sits on an athletic figure, emphasizing her dignity - a wide torso and a slender waist. Among this version of the styles, the extra slim model can be distinguished, that is, the maximum or very narrowed. As a rule, these are youth models.
  • Regular-Fit. Model with a classic cut, which usually has a stiff collar under a tie and is worn with a suit. For a more informal setting, you can choose a tandem of such a shirt with cardigans, sweaters or vests.
  • Custom-Fit. Loose fit products that usually suit any body type. It is important that the thing does not sit baggy, and the collar fits a jacket or sweater (without them, such styles are usually not worn).

Sometimes a Slavic shirt, an oversized model, a product like a hoodie with a hood and sleeves with an elastic band is sewn according to this principle.

Collar types

The design of the shirt and its purpose are largely determined by the type of collar, while it can be as follows:

  • classic, medium length - optimal for a heart-shaped or square-shaped face;
  • wide - suitable for a face with rough features, as it softens them visually, as well as for a face with a narrow or triangular shape.
  • elongated - the basic rule of wearing: the neck should not completely "sink" in such a collar, but such a collar can hide an unnecessarily long neck; in addition, a model of a shirt with an elongated collar visually "stretches" the face.

Important! The collar can be formal (for classic-cut shirts) and informal (for models of other styles).

Among the formal collars, the following are distinguished:

  • classical - characterized by sharp, downward-looking ends; according to etiquette standards, the distance between the tip of the collar and the top button of the shirt is 7 cm; it is optimally mixed with a classic-cut jacket;
  • collar kent, named after the Duke of Kent, is a versatile collar that can be combined with most types of suits and "accepts" any type and way of tying a tie; the kent can be unfastened by 1–2 buttons, in general it is similar to the classic one, but when fastening the ends form a sharper angle;
  • Oxford - a variant, also similar to the classic one, but the corners of the Oxford directed downward form an acute angle; it is combined with jumpers and vests with a V-neck, suits;
  • Italian - similar to the classic one, but its ends are more elongated and spread wider;
  • french collar, he is a shark, is a rather massive, wide collar, the edges of which are pulled apart; he “demands” to himself ties, tied with a wide knot, but the narrow knot of a tie against the background of a shark is lost; this model is not sewn to ties and shirts;
  • butterfly - from the name it is clear that the collar was created specifically for a bow tie, as an option - a neckerchief; it is a high stand-up collar with small corners bent down, set exactly at an angle of 45 degrees; a shirt with such a collar is worn exclusively with a tuxedo or tailcoat;
  • tab - this is a collar with a cloth buckle-bridge; it fastens with a button or buckle and must hide in business bows with a tie; in an informal setting, you can wear a tab without a tie, but be sure to fasten it with a button (button);
  • crombie - this collar is quite wide, has a simple rectangular cut and corners that always look down.

Informal collars can be as follows:

  • batten down - an element of clothing that came from the uniform of polo players, that is, inherent in sports shirts, it is a persistent, made of dense fabric, turn-down collar, has rather long and sharp corners, which are equipped with buttons and are fastened to the shirt itself; it is not intended for ties, but it looks stylish with jackets, so it is great for casual style;
  • varno - the main feature of these collars is their sewing from a rather dense fabric, which prevents the corners from touching the shirt and makes this type of collars optimal for sweaters;
  • mandarin - under this unusual name hides a well-fitting stand-up collar, which is combined with light jackets or a jacket, it does not fit a tie, as it is devoid of turn-down edges;
  • Eton - differs in rounded ends, combined with knitted cardigans, blazers and generally suggests a rather soft look.

Sleeve and cuff options

The sleeves of the shirts are long and short. In the classic look, only the first option is permissible. Short sleeves are a part of the sporty model. There is also a semi-formal version - the short sleeve is quite wide, and the shirt as a whole has a classic design. However, even such products are not worn under a suit and are not worn at official events.

As for the cuffs, then, according to the norms of etiquette, they should be shown by 1.5 cm from under the sleeve of the jacket and half cover the wrist or the dial of the wristwatch... Cuffs can be fastened with buttons or cufflinks. The latter are considered an indicator of respectability and a person's belonging to high society. If the cuff is fastened, then a loop is made on one of them, and a button on the other.

The latter can be one or more, such a cuff should fit snugly to the wrist.

Most often, buttons are sewn onto the cuff in the usual way, but sometimes they can be fixed like cufflinks. This option is less common, looks more solemn, but in everyday wear it can seem rather pretentious... Cuffs for cufflinks, they are also called French, are pierced with loops. Cufflinks are inserted into them, the latter should peek out slightly or periodically appear from under the sleeve of the jacket.

Important! It is worth highlighting the so-called cocktail type of cuffs. A shirt with this element can be seen in the James Bond films. The cuff is quite long and can even be tucked if necessary. Such models are worn at gala receptions.

According to the shape, the cuffs are divided into round, straight and short rectangular (their length is 6 cm), the option with cut corners is slightly less common. If you evaluate the tightness of the cuff, then they are soft and lined. The latter can be stitched or glued.

In most cases, the cuffs are the same color as the shirt itself.However, some models may have contrasting cuffs.

What kinds of fasteners are there?

Consider the possible options for fastening shirts, namely:

  • the simplest is to fold the shelf, after which the loops are sewn onto it;
  • the fastener can be performed on a strap - this is the folded edge of the shelf or a separately sewn line, while the line with loops is framed by an additional decorative strip of fabric;
  • the option of a hidden fastener is possible - in this case, the buttons are fixed on the inner strap, and the loops are hidden by an additional strip of fabric, thanks to which neither the loops nor the buttons are visible on the shirt.

Important! Separately, it is necessary to mention shirts with zippers - these are modern models, usually made of thick fabrics.

Materials (edit)

Today shirts for men can be sewn from almost any material.

  • Synthetics. The most affordable option is polyester, elastane. But products made from such fabrics cannot be called durable - the fabric shrinks or stretches after several washes. In addition, it does not allow air to pass through well, so it is not very comfortable in such clothes.
  • Cotton with synthetics. A similar fabric for shirts is a better option than the previous one. It is also cheaper than pure cotton fabric. When washing, you need to monitor the temperature of the water, since the material shrinks. In addition, its air permeability also remains at a low level, so in summer it can be stuffy in such a shirt.
  • Cotton - an expensive natural fabric that looks respectable and neat, but wrinkles quickly and is extremely demanding on the peculiarities of washing modes - it reacts sensitively to bleaches, aggressive powders. Poplin is considered a type of cotton (cotton fabric with the addition of a small amount of synthetic threads). Viscose is less capricious in care and wear.
  • Silk - pleasant fabric, slightly slippery to the touch. It is comfortable to wear a silk shirt at any time of the year, as it perfectly allows air to pass through and allows you to regulate body temperature. However, this is a rather capricious material - it requires certain conditions for washing and ironing. It is also a rather expensive fabric.
  • Flannel - fabric based on wool and cotton, therefore characterized by softness. The fabric is warm, suitable for products in the cold season. The most popular flannel fabric design is the plaid. Another insulated fabric is corduroy. Along with flannel, these are crease-free materials that are suitable for sewing casual shirts.
  • Denim - thin denim. Chaumbray fabric is very similar to denim, but this is only a visual similarity. Shaumbra is a different type of weave that makes the fabric softer.
  • Jacquard - dense fabric with a special weaving of threads due to which a three-dimensional effect is created. The fabric itself is complex, eye-catching, so prints should be avoided on it - it can look pretentious.
  • Oxford - one of the most popular types of fabric that is used for sewing classic shirts. It is characterized by a combination of softness and density due to the type of weaving according to the "matting" principle.
  • Broadcloth - an expensive fabric with a noble sheen, usually used for sewing shirts for official events, outings. The weaving of threads in such a fabric is quite dense, so the fabric itself keeps its shape well, while it is very thin, pleasant to the body.
  • Leather. Eco-leather is usually used. It can be either an independent material or used as a decoration.

Variety of colors, decor and prints

The basic colors of men's shirts are white and all shades of blue. It is products in these shades that are found most often, which is not surprising - they are combined with most suits and styles and are suitable for every man. If we talk about more saturated colors, then here stylists recommend taking into account the seasonality factor. Darker and more saturated colors are considered traditional winter shades.

These are black, wine and burgundy shades, dark blue, khaki, coffee with milk (and increasingly darker and warmer beige color options), gray. For the warm season, these same colors are "transformed" into their softer and lighter versions. Lilac, pink, blue, yellow-beige shirts will look appropriate.

If a strict business style assumes exclusively light monochromatic shirts, then a semi-formal style for every day allows the presence of a soft small print on a light shirt. It can be a thin strip, a small cage, including a goose foot print, various rhombuses. The main requirements for such drawings are a combination of no more than 2 shades, muted colors.

As a rule, it is white or beige base with a light blue or grayish pattern... Such shirts, ideally, should be the only printed item (jacket and tie - one color).

Alternatively, a tie with a similar pattern, but larger than the pattern of the shirt.

The most neutral and popular are striped shirts., and ideally its thickness should not exceed 1 cm. Another popular type of print is a cage. A small check is for a more businesslike look, a large check for a relaxed casual style of a sports bow.

Stylish models with small floral ornaments - a great addition to jeans and skinny fabric models of trousers, jackets (but not classic), leather jackets. But stylists recommend wearing models with large flowers and other fancy elements on vacation in the summer. They look great with jeans, shorts, light-colored trousers.

Important! Among the decorative elements, one can distinguish various epaulettes, slots, gates, as well as products of the romantic style - with ruffles, with embroidery. When choosing such a product, remember that these elements will become a bright decor, a speaking detail, so do not overload the image. Such products should be "fit" into the casual style.

Styles

The whole variety of models of shirts for men in general can be divided into two groups such as:

  • classic ones are usually made of softer fabric (this can be royal oxford, twill), characterized by a thin weaving;
  • sports are denser and even coarser materials, including denim, chambray, flannel.

The classic colors are white and all light shades. Too dark a palette is not welcome, while the shade of shirts of the second group can be very different, including very complex or variegated. The same can be said for prints. In classic models, it is either absent, or it is almost imperceptible stripes, restrained geometry. In sports models, the pattern can be anything. A characteristic feature of classic models is also a rigid collar designed for wearing ties and bow ties. In other models, the collar is soft without a rigid insert. But they may contain pockets, epaulettes, various decorative elements and unusual fasteners.

Many subspecies can be distinguished among informal models. For example, cowboy and safari models are very popular this season. For relaxation, a Thai shirt, boho models, products in the Chinese style (in the manner of a kimono), and Japanese style are optimal.

For connoisseurs of strict bows, a Muslim shirt (one-color elongated model), wedding (white classic) is suitable.

Selection Tips

When choosing a shirt, one should take into account the purpose of its purchase, lifestyle (many representatives of the stronger sex choose clothes according to the principle - the one that does not need to be ironed), the complexion and features of a man's appearance. Product dimensions are based on sleeve length and neck circumference. Knowing these parameters exactly, it is almost impossible to go wrong with the size of the shirt.The optimal fabric for a shirt is natural materials with the presence of synthetic threads, for example, cotton or linen with synthetics in the composition.

When choosing a shirt, pay attention to the stitch frequency. In a high-quality product, there are 4–6 stitches per 1 cm of fabric, in products of premium brands - up to 8–9 cm. The smaller the stitches, the neater the product looks, the more durable it will be. The thickness of the threads is also important - they should not be too coarse, and the holes from the needle should be noticeable. This is again a question not only of aesthetics, but also of the possibility of wearing a shirt for a long time.

The fabric for a quality shirt is double twisted threads. Visually, this cannot be determined in any way, but by the label it is quite. The manufacturer will indicate this fact with the inscription 2-fold or double-twisted. The fabric of the product is quite dense (the interlacing of the threads in the fabric is not visible), pleasant to the body. On shirts of the middle price category and below, the buttons are usually plastic. Mother of pearl indicates a higher value of the thing. This is also indicated by the reduced upper and additional buttons on the cuff.

Another detail by which one can judge the quality of the product is the gusset. This is a small wedge at the junction of the back and the shelf. The fact is that in this part the shirt is subjected to the greatest tension, which can cause it to wear out quickly. The gusset is an element of reinforcement. In products of the low price segment, the gusset is almost never found.

If you want your shirt to fit perfectly, look at the cuffs. The fabric at the junction of the cuff and sleeve should be gathered into small folds. Otherwise, the transition from wider to narrower part does not look very attractive, it seems that there is too much fabric in the sleeve. When choosing a color, you should focus on the color type of a man. If you want to experiment with print, you can start with thin stripes. Vertical stripes visually stretch the silhouette, but too thin men it is better to refuse such a pattern. It makes sense for them to try a product with diagonal stripes or small checks.

Important! The correct sleeve length is when the sleeve covers the joint of the thumb. Even when bending the arm, the sleeve should not rise too much, even more so - bare the wrist.

As for the collar, 1-2 fingers should fit between the neck and the inside of the collar. There are also quite strict requirements for the shoulder seams - they must begin strictly where the man's shoulders end and the hand begins. By placing the shoulder seams above this border, the shirt will pull in the back. If the shoulder seams are below the shoulder line, then the sleeves will be long, and the shirt will look baggy, ridiculous. A dress shirt is usually long because it is designed to be tucked into trousers. It is unacceptable that it protrude out of the trousers when a man is sitting or bending over. Classic models also do not wear bulk. But with sports options, this is quite acceptable.

The width of the shirt should be such that, when tucked into the trousers, it does not bubble on the sides. Many men who are ashamed of their massive figure tend to choose a wider shirt in the hope that it will hide the sides. However, this technique will only further distort the proportions of the figure. However, if the buttons of the shirt are pulled tight when buttoned, this also indicates an inappropriate size of the product, you need to choose a larger size.

How and with what to wear?

Classic men's shirts are combined with formal suits. Fitted models are characterized by versatilityyu - go well with jeans and informal trousers. However, they look very stylish with suits. The main thing is that the jacket should also be fitted.

Many men avoid black shirts, but in vain. True, this stylish element of the image is self-sufficient and does not require other accessories.It goes well with a dark gray or blue suit. In the post-Soviet space, however, a combination of black and blue is rare. But it is enough to look at the looks of the French to understand that a black shirt is a profitable "investment". For informal looks, a black product can be combined with knitted blazers and cardigans, put on a sweatshirt on top and complement the image with jeans and sneakers.

A gray shirt gives a lot of scope for searching for style. The easiest option is to pair it with a navy blue suit and tie in blue tones. If you want to create a more complex bow - choose a light gray shirt, a medium gray suit and a darker, in comparison, graphite gray vest or cardigan. The task of the latter is to "break" the gray, to make the image more multi-layered. However, a cardigan or a vest of burgundy, blue or bottle color will do well with this task.

Important! A wine-colored shirt is considered quite popular. It is suitable for formal occasions in combination with brown and blue suits, as well as for informal occasions (combine with jeans, chinos).

Stylish examples

  • The rolled-up sleeves of the shirt make the look modern and dynamic. It is believed that the sleeves should be tucked in twice the width of the cuff.
  • A rather strict suit in a classic gray color can be "revived" with a shirt in a small pattern. He is supported by a scarf peeking out of his pocket. In general, the image looks respectable and elegant, fresh and dynamic.
  • An example of how diverse a strip can be in clothes. Only due to this, the image does not look ridiculous and inappropriate - each thing has its own version of the print. The widest and most visible stripes take up the smallest area (tie) - the ideal style rule.
  • A shirt over a T-shirt always looks especially stylish and free. An important condition is that a certain type of shirt is suitable, for example, a dense flannel in a cage or from denim.
1 comment
Irina
0

Great article!

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